galinda, guest editing, and the grim
thoughts on dressing for the theme, daring to open the magazine, and seeing your idol at the pub.
Hello! I’m back from my mental health break. Now, my mental health is stronger than ever. My psychological countenance is unbreakable. My inner harmony is unbendable. You can’t comprehend the brute strength of my mental health!!!!!! Anyway.
This newsletter is changing in format for the millionth time. It will be a bit looser, more stream of consciousness, and more often. I have too many semi-informed hot takes on the current state of fashion to share in a well-researched, long-form format! Twice a week you’ll be getting BULLET POINTS, BABY! If you don’t like it, don’t let the saloon door hit you in the bustle on the way out.
Speaking of bustles…
Ariana Grande’s best look from the Wicked press tour is this one from Thom Browne (1). I’m obsessed with the fit. Why do people hate when actors match their looks to the film they’re promoting? Have we forgotten Zendaya’s Loewe-does-Challengers heels so quickly (3)?
The bag makes the look. It’s so Toto. Let us acknowledge our sartorial ancestors and give props to Cole Escola holding the same accessory at the Met Gala this year (2).
Speaking of dog-shaped bags…
Simone Rocha dropped the Grimm on us last week (4). Very different vibe from Thom’s wicker sweetie pie. I saw these bags in person at Dover Street Market London last week, and can vouch for the fact that they will hold almost nothing inside of them. (Anyone else think this drop was too close to Collina Strada’s BAGGU horse bag collab (5)? Maybe it’s the fact that they’re the same material and shape?)
As a rule, I don’t get starstruck. One season running scripts at Saturday Night Live will do that to you. But last week, the Grim-maker herself walked into The Baring (a lovely pub offering excellent pork tonkatsu lunch special) with her parents and my heart stopped. Simone Rocha the person, decked out in Simone Rocha the brand. Her parents were also decked out. They were so bizarre looking as a trio, so mystical, like the yarn-spinning fates from The Odyssey.
Speaking of wearing one designer head to toe…
If you are a habitual consumer of fashion media, you have already been thinkpieced-to-death about Anna Wintour tapping Marc Jacobs to guest edit December’s Vogue. I don’t have any hot takes here, besides strongly recommending this YouTube video on the making of the issue. So often we are bombarded with screenshotted imagery and secondhand floating head commentary, without taking the time to really look at a piece of art in its entirety. I’m bored by criticism of the cover, especially from those who didn’t care to open the magazine.
Before even seeing the cover(s), my friend Maddy from BRICKS Magazine showed me this image (6), taken inside Marc Jacobs’ home, and I haven’t been able to get it out of my mind since.
Speaking of my friend Maddy from BRICKS Magazine…
If you’re looking for work in the fashion industry, I HIGHLY recommend checking out BRICKS’ job board The Learner Platform. The barrier to entry into this business is high, especially for those from a working-class background, those in marginalized groups, and simply those without familial connections. A monthly subscription gets you weekly creative opportunities, business tips & advice, members-only podcasts… and you can even pay it forward for someone who can’t afford the membership.
Speaking of seeking a higher salary…
Madewell has a lot of nerve. I was a well-behaved Tumblr alumnus, setting several alarms on the morning of the first release of the Alexa Chung x Madewell collab. I hurriedly clicked into the website, only to find the jacket I wanted listed for $850 (7). How dare they!!
The second half of the collab dropped last week, and now a $348 corduroy jacket is looking cheap in comparison (8). Mind games, I tell you!!
Speaking of needing a segue for this part…
I am craving a newspaper dress. There is an opportunity for some kind of erudite thesis here… losing grip on the state of the world… dreading reading the news but wanting to reclaim the news… but honestly I just saw a picture of Amelia Dimoldenberg in a custom one for her chicken show (9). My fabulously stylish friend Heather has one that I love (10). And of course, it was iconically donned by thee Carrie Bradshaw herself (11). I have my eyes on this Galliano version (12) for when I inevitably win the lottery despite never playing it.
Speaking of the news…
One of my favorite Substackers (are we called that yet? It’s only a matter of time) Viv Chen of The Mole Hill put together a really great list of articles regarding fashion’s role in politics - voluntary or not. Highly recommend spending an afternoon with them.
xx Ruby